tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-268171142024-03-07T15:59:39.164-08:00back40 bicycleworksGlen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.comBlogger95125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-76249155632364478692020-07-04T09:56:00.003-07:002020-07-04T09:56:59.002-07:00Update Summer 2020;<br /><br />You can find what I'm up to at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/back40bikes/">https://www.instagram.com/back40bikes/</a> or <a href="https://back40.net/">https://back40.net/</a><br />
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-8370620383352496842016-12-02T16:54:00.000-08:002016-12-02T16:54:07.220-08:00<b>Update:</b><br />
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It's been a long time since I posted here. I'm still building carbon frames but making a big change in direction. Below is one of many steps towards molding tubes and frame components in-house.<br />
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<b>3D Printing:</b><br />
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In order to create molded carbon tubes and frame parts I needed to be able to mold silicone bladders that fit the inside shape of the final carbon parts. I didn't want to use wrinkle prone sleeves or other methods. I want to use shaped bladders. In order to make molds I purchased a 3D printer. I chose an <a href="http://www.atom3dp.com/en/atom2/">Atom 2.0 Printer</a> for the accuracy and print volume (particularly print height). Now, each iteration of a mold costs about $10 worth of ABS filament.<br />
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Here are mold components for a bottom bracket bladder being printed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlg5i_OcQsBmXfY8C-z1OVERu_jiGNW34NmTQMOW1Olt3ADPurAPBdS_aIDQbAKPlrVIxUEIzlqqxrQVjo2nPHCzv5GFgpKFcivhoWdYborKtLJEo-Z0yT0bPiZ4WNOgO2Hpw8w/s1600/3D+Printing+Mold.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlg5i_OcQsBmXfY8C-z1OVERu_jiGNW34NmTQMOW1Olt3ADPurAPBdS_aIDQbAKPlrVIxUEIzlqqxrQVjo2nPHCzv5GFgpKFcivhoWdYborKtLJEo-Z0yT0bPiZ4WNOgO2Hpw8w/s400/3D+Printing+Mold.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I lightly sanded the parts, smoothed them with acetone and covered them in mold release.<br />
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I mixed up the two part silicone and attempted to degas it prior to injecting into the mold.</div>
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I used an empty caulking tube and caulking gun to inject the silicone into the mold. It started to pop open (the end cap) so I had to clamp it shut during the injection phase. Having made the mold parts out of "clear" ABS I could tell the mold was filling well.</div>
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After letting it cure overnight I trimmed the excess silicone and opened the mold.</div>
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It was a bit of a struggle to get the core part of the mold out of the bladder. Luckily the silicone stretches a long way. The finished bladder has some flash and a few bubbles in it but it holds air which is the important part. The flash trimmed of easily leaving a smooth outer surface.</div>
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I've also been using the printer to make models of each tube I intend to mold. More to come...</div>
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-19452188918428119852014-12-29T11:51:00.000-08:002014-12-29T11:51:11.240-08:00TestingI've been working on ways to make the frames faster and more consistent. In particular I've been working on the joint process. <br />
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Below is the new release layer being removed from the test joint prior to laying the carbon fiber.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiu7gk9TMHrQM3hxqB_KTMcZWUKH92tu2yYlrPK1pR4PLbUwKtacLtNpIDwJrPrvhd9oE4JzN0UbOMizbkv5UWD81U8nrklpOhT4p-OE2O-pmGDhBZ9yIXI9sVCBREA82Z1xVIrg/s1600/New+Release+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiu7gk9TMHrQM3hxqB_KTMcZWUKH92tu2yYlrPK1pR4PLbUwKtacLtNpIDwJrPrvhd9oE4JzN0UbOMizbkv5UWD81U8nrklpOhT4p-OE2O-pmGDhBZ9yIXI9sVCBREA82Z1xVIrg/s1600/New+Release+01.jpg" height="245" width="400" /></a></div>
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After a standard bagging and baking process this is the result "out of the oven". It took only seconds to unwrap the test joint. Previously, using release cloth, this was a time consuming process.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEczPGlvm_WQuhilTQxrW98ziahuQhn_4JEPfF-KpxoXR7znIYYlbk2szD6Bh65w9dkdZzp-tVf6LMCmOkryln8hKRL3TCZ8p3ES9EF2aqYbgE19HWKTkN0Ff3pQuDAxzxv0IkhQ/s1600/Unwrapped+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEczPGlvm_WQuhilTQxrW98ziahuQhn_4JEPfF-KpxoXR7znIYYlbk2szD6Bh65w9dkdZzp-tVf6LMCmOkryln8hKRL3TCZ8p3ES9EF2aqYbgE19HWKTkN0Ff3pQuDAxzxv0IkhQ/s1600/Unwrapped+01.jpg" height="223" width="400" /></a></div>
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Below on the left is the bare sanded tube I used for the test joint. On the right there are 5 layers of uni-directional carbon. It almost looks transparent in the photo but it's actually the texture of the tube itself duplicated in the new release layer process.<br />
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On one half of the joint I experimented with allowing resin overflow through small holes in the release layer. Not sure it was worth the extra effort, not much resin flowed out into the breather layer. I's also difficult to remove the little epoxy nubs cleanly.<br />
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Up next should be a new road frame using this process for the tube joining.Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-1951822546181402272014-05-04T12:20:00.000-07:002014-05-04T12:20:00.205-07:00Cross Assembled and TestedThe larger of the two frames was for me. I've put over 900km on the bike now, some of which was on very rough gravel Jeep roads.<br />
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Here it is assembled waiting for it's first ride (and for the snow to finally melt).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihug0mYD69zAZO_KQmT-IMAWFjzTSVFA3AR1FrpYJSUbkf_BFa3_o0REX60q-jgwTBZXSS7r_BIl4aVqrshFpAFu_P2rhFVZkZWjT3bNRha8Gs3IUEsPMJWqlP72ExtCy79wnUpg/s1600/Full+Bike+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihug0mYD69zAZO_KQmT-IMAWFjzTSVFA3AR1FrpYJSUbkf_BFa3_o0REX60q-jgwTBZXSS7r_BIl4aVqrshFpAFu_P2rhFVZkZWjT3bNRha8Gs3IUEsPMJWqlP72ExtCy79wnUpg/s1600/Full+Bike+01.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
Some of the detail in the seat cluster area.<br />
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The TRP front brake and re-painted ENVE fork.<br />
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This is how the heavily modified Crumpton dropouts and shortened ENVE seat stay molding turned out. Note the stay cable guide. I used solid casing from bar to derailleurs on this bike to keep everything running smoothly.<br />
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In April I was riding in South Carolina and finally, having the right bike along, did a loop using Horsepasture Road. It's a Jeep road located in the Jocassee Gorges Management Area. <a href="https://www.dnr.sc.gov/news/yr2013/may23/may23_jumping.html">Horespasture Info</a><br />
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After riding the loop I'd suggest a 29r over a cross bike. 34x28 low gear and 33C tires were not ideal for riding this loop given the steeper pitches, loose surface in places and my poor spring climbing form.<br />
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The view from Jumping Off Rock lookout was more then worth the climb though.<br />
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If nothing cracked or broke on the frame on the bone shaking descent I can't see it being an issue where I normally ride.Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-77982639208189704732014-05-04T11:53:00.001-07:002014-05-04T11:53:32.373-07:00Finished Cross FramesIt's been a while since I last updated. I've since managed to have both frames painted and one assembled and test ridden extensively.<br />
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Here is the smaller frame back from paint. It had matte clear logo under gloss finish applied.<br />
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Here is the BB area.<br />
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And one of the hand made cable guides (titanium tubing wrapped in carbon).<br />
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More photos to follow once this frame is built up.Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-29585808024396687212013-10-25T15:25:00.000-07:002014-03-10T19:14:14.880-07:00Two CrossTwo cross frames just about ready for some clear coat.<br />
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BB wrap initial layers span the joint from DT to rear end.<br />
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TT triple cable guide made from carbon wrapped titanium tube sections. These are for solid casing from lever to derailleur/brake.<br />
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Initial layers of HT wrapping.<br />
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Finished HT wrapping prior to vacuum bagging and baking.<br />
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Front of finished wrapped HT.<br />
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Both cross frames sanded and ready for clear coat.<br />
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-23773832242573596012013-10-01T17:03:00.000-07:002013-10-01T17:03:44.978-07:00Cross Frame Ready for PaintI've got the latest carbon frame 99% ready for clear coat etc. Just need to slot the seat tube at the top and it's ready to go.<br />
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The layers of carbon show through and even more with gloss clear applied.<br />
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The custom extended seat stay plugs to fit the ENVE rear end turned out nicely.<br />
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The frame is built for continuous casing. This is one of the guides bonded on. It's carbon wrapped around small a titanium tube. They are bonded on but don't take any brake or shifting force.<br />
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Excellent clearance for 33C cross tires. I could probably get some monster 42C tires in back and front.<br />
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Three triple top tube guides. Again, carbon wrapped titanium bonded on.<br />
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Stay tuned for cross frame number two up next...Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-58423641789205203012013-09-08T15:40:00.001-07:002013-09-08T15:40:33.895-07:00Glued and FilletedI picked up the dropout parts from anodizing and fit the seat stay assembly in the jig. That was the last step before gluing the tubes together. Below is the bonded seat tube joint.<br />
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Here is the head tube joint. Prior to applying the joint fillets I rough sand the carbon (just a bit) and clean the whole frame with isopropyl alcohol.<br />
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This is a BB fillet in the un-sanded state. Once it cures I'll file and sand it to shape. The glass micro spheres in the epoxy make for easy shaping.<br />
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Weight of glued frame. It should come in around 1050g all finished with paint. The ENVE cross rear end isn't all that light.<br />
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Lots of tire clearance here. That's a 25mm shown. Should be able to use a 35mm.<br />
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-86982234490947838542013-08-19T17:44:00.001-07:002013-08-19T17:47:35.841-07:00Cross FrameI started building the first carbon cross frame. It uses custom ENVE tubing, ENVE seat and chain stays (for cantilever brakes).<br />
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Here are the main triangle tubes mitered in the jig. I carefully mark them before cutting to avoid any screw ups.<br />
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The ends of the ENVE seat stays come molded to bolt directly to dropouts. I noticed the spacing was a little off for the Crumpton dropouts I'm using. I set them up in the mill and carefully ground them down to fit.<br />
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Once I had them completed I fit them on the dropouts and checked the cantilever post location. It was out by almost 1/2"! This seat stay molding was obviously for a dropout with more offset from the axle. ENVE did not supply a drawing when requested so I was hoping for the best. Turns out I had some cutting and machining to do.<br />
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I cut the molded end with threaded insert off the stay and tried the Crumpton seat stay plug. Still over 1/2" short given the amount I had to remove to eliminate the molded end.<br />
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My only real option was to machine a new set of stay end plugs with the correct offset.<br />
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In the end they turned out better than I'd hoped. Now they just need anodizing.<br />
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-75492775519563527282013-06-26T17:25:00.000-07:002013-06-26T17:26:44.174-07:00Finished FrameThis is the finished frame. It has a gloss over matte clear coat finish and weighs 890g. Neil is pleased.<br />
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-54893471789789767632013-06-10T16:40:00.000-07:002013-06-10T16:40:19.232-07:00Ready For PaintAfter some trial end error with the cable guide molding process I was able to complete the frame, attach the guides, fabricate and bond in the brake bridge etc.<br />
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Here I'm aligning the rear brake to mark the mounting hole location. I make sure the pads are nicely centered in the slots.<br />
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Here is the brake from behind, again, nicely centered.<br />
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Here are the final cable bosses bonded on the down tube. They slipped a little during bonding with one sitting slightly ahead of the other. If I bother making carbon guides again I'll make a bonding fixture for clamping them on in a fixed position.<br />
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Here is the seat cluster sanded and ready for clear coat.</div>
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And the number Neil has been waiting for...the total final weight prior to clear coat. Given the weight of the clear on Chuck's frame this one <i>should</i> come in under 900g.</div>
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Time to get some paint mask cut...</div>
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Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-74347170081740009422013-05-24T17:41:00.000-07:002013-05-24T17:41:46.671-07:00Carbon Cable GuidesI started working on some carbon cable guides for the latest frame. After a few tests of two quick molds I manged to get an acceptable guide blank for testing. Here is the progression from mold one, under compacted to mold 2 fully compacted and cured solid carbon composite. These were made out of woven pre-preg and baked in the oven.<br />
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I ground, milled and sanded one into shape and test bonded it to a frame tube with DP-420. I'll do some load testing to failure before applying them to the frame.<br />
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Another view.</div>
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The joint epoxy coating and sanding is almost complete as well.</div>
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Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-85102561924954735712013-04-29T19:10:00.000-07:002013-04-29T19:10:42.886-07:00Front RepairHad a small setback with this frame due to a mislabeled tube and neglecting to measure said tube. The head tube was not 44mm ID. I noticed just prior to bagging for the oven, removed the pre-preg and baked the rest of the frame.<br />
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After grinding and prying off the wrong head tube I carefully replaced it after cleaning up the joint. Everything was aligned in the jig to the same location.<br />
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Here is the new head tube installed and re filleted.<br />
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Below is the complete first layer of joint wrapping.<br />
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Here it is later on when I apply a woven layer.<br />
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And here is the final finished wrapped joint.<br />
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I have the wrapping with release cloth process down to only a few pieces now.<br />
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I only vacuum bagged the front portion of the frame this time since the other joints were already cured. I'm leaving more slack in the bag now to allow for it to pull cleanly into the joint.<br />
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In the oven, under vacuum and ready to cure.<br />
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-8841095946053651262013-04-21T16:20:00.000-07:002013-04-21T16:20:17.493-07:00Carbon WrappingI start wrapping the head tube joint with uni-directional carbon. I like to use long fibers that wrap around the front of the head tube to anchor the down tube.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQjgKC3vOrQexYfwNG1i9wDrAHEmJnMqXsiN8y2_BtSHc3zc3uPo0Gl0Eiag4Ag7LQs4lz6Z51yWD6dG-a3BB3OPEE6CGtV5m8fRqPQa7RwnSw08WRHUlPviMRTF9Voq5z_FPxdw/s1600/Head+Tube+Wrap+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQjgKC3vOrQexYfwNG1i9wDrAHEmJnMqXsiN8y2_BtSHc3zc3uPo0Gl0Eiag4Ag7LQs4lz6Z51yWD6dG-a3BB3OPEE6CGtV5m8fRqPQa7RwnSw08WRHUlPviMRTF9Voq5z_FPxdw/s320/Head+Tube+Wrap+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I continue covering both sides of the head tube joint with uni-directional and fill in any small gaps to maintain a smooth joint.<br />
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I added a small piece of woven pre-preg under the down tube for a little extra strength.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6uaI8Z5kO3xtJ9yOPYRgMgfMO-HEiCFcbNse52Xdl46O183VXhKGZbOX77cZVbJa7qewnGgJ69nVpMzUo86GMxANFUZ5Zxy8-whfsqPK-QeTRvDLk3pv2gLlkAn-c98diM9O8Dw/s1600/Head+Tube+Extra+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6uaI8Z5kO3xtJ9yOPYRgMgfMO-HEiCFcbNse52Xdl46O183VXhKGZbOX77cZVbJa7qewnGgJ69nVpMzUo86GMxANFUZ5Zxy8-whfsqPK-QeTRvDLk3pv2gLlkAn-c98diM9O8Dw/s320/Head+Tube+Extra+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Next I wrap the entire joint in 45 deg woven carbon using one large piece. I carefully cut the carbon where it meets the center line of the frame and avoid overlap.<br />
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After completing the head tube joint with more uni-directional material I move to the BB joint and complete it in the same fashion.<br />
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Unfortunately the heat gun I use to increase the tack level and soften the pre-preg broke on a Sunday afternoon so I had to stop at this point. Look for the complete wrapped frame and bagging process up next.<br />
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-51387032173244948552013-04-14T16:45:00.003-07:002013-04-14T16:45:35.464-07:00Joint FilletsAfter the epoxy set on the joints overnight in the jig I removed the frame, checked the alignment and weighed it. 766g is a pretty good start to having a nice light frame.<br />
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Before I wrap the frame in carbon I add fillets to smooth the joints between the tubes. These are made out of 50 micron glass balloons and DP420 epoxy. I did a quick test in the oven prior to this build and found a newer, easier to mix laminating epoxy went soft below 250F. I did not want to risk having it move under vacuum so I used the same method I have on all the frames so far. Here is the BB sanded.<br />
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Another view of the sanded BB joint. I'm trying slightly larger fillets on this frame.<br />
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Similarly on the head tube, larger than normal fillets, mostly because the top and down tube almost touch.<br />
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Also trying a web between the seat stays on this frame. It will help stiffen the joint and make the carbon wrapping a little smoother. Here it is partially sanded.<br />
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Once all the fillets were sanded the frame came in at 788g, ready to wrap in carbon pre-preg.Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-60397915029455673122013-04-06T13:50:00.003-07:002013-04-06T14:02:02.142-07:00Frame BondedI continued to miter and fit frame components into the jig. Below in the ENVE chain stay cut to fit the BB and seat tube. I'm not that impressed with the molding on the ENVE non-tube parts. The parting line is rough looking, stepped and grooved.<br />
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Here is the head tube ready to be cleaned and rough sanded prior to bonding. I put 3/4" holes in this time.<br />
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I cut off the titanium tube extending from the carbon tube, ground. filed and sanded it flush with the tube. This is a lot easier prior to being bonded in the frame.<br />
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This is how I miter the individual seat stay tubes. The angle and offset from the center of the seat tube are easy to set this way.<br />
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First joint to be glued is the seat tube to BB. A small bead of glue seals the joint face when completed.<br />
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Here is an example of the amount of epoxy used on a tube joint.<br />
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Finished BB joint ready to cure overnight before an alignment check is made of the whole frame.<br />
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I wrap the dropouts and end of stays in flash breaker tape to reduce the amount of cleanup required after bonding. I don't want to have to sand away too much glue and possibly scratch the anodized dropouts.<br />
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-89169675804863967072013-03-17T19:32:00.001-07:002013-03-22T10:33:36.117-07:00Tube Cutting and Jig FittingHere are the tubes for Neil's frame going through the process of being cut to fit together in the jig. <br />
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First is the seat tube being mitered with the abrasive belt system. I cut the seat tube using vee blocks in the vice to make sure it's exactly 90 degrees.<br />
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Here it the fit to the BB shell. You can see the scribe line that I "sand" up to.</div>
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Next is the BB joint. You can see that the blocks I use to hold the tubes in the mill are still attached to the down tube. That way I can easily put the tube back in the mill if required.<br />
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Here is the head tube joint at the same point in the process. <br />
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This frame will have a titanium tube inserted into the top tube to act as a brake cable guide. Here is the somewhat Rube Goldberg method I use to cut the guide holes for now.<br />
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It leads to a nice smooth transition for the entrance and exit. Once bonded in place the tube will but ground flush with the carbon.<br />
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Finally, just for Neil, who likes this sort of thing, the weight of the titanium guide tube (prior to being trimmed on each end). Not including the cap of course.<br />
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Next step is bonding in the tubes and bottle bosses.Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-37130081535837677092013-03-10T08:42:00.002-07:002013-03-10T08:42:08.287-07:00Tube MarkingThe next step is carefully marking the tubes for cutting and mitering. I use a silver marker on the carbon then lightly scribe it away to mark cut locations. <br />
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I have a .01" graduated ruler I use for marks longer that the 12" calipers can reach.<br />
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I mark a cut length, miter location line, miter diameter and angle to make it very clear.<br />
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When all the tubes are complete I check them against the drawing once more. I don't want to make any mistakes and have to get another tube.<br />
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Next step is to cut the tubing and fit it in the jig that already been set to the correct dimensions from the CAD drawing. <br />
<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-3000327284281400112013-03-03T16:34:00.004-08:002013-03-03T16:37:32.244-08:00Neil's Frame BeginsNeil's new frame was set in motion today. It will be a lighter version of his first prototype frame with ENVE tubing and twin seat stay tubes. It should be somewhere around 900g when complete (but we'll see).<br />
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First the jig was set up according to the CAD drawing.<br />
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Then the head tube was cut to length (then turned on the lathe to exact length and to true the ends). I cut tubes with a fine tooth band saw running on medium speed with a very slow down feed rate. I found this does not snag or pull any fibers.<br />
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Here is the progression of creating an external butted section to accommodate Neil's seat post clamp at 33.9mm. It shows the wrapped pre-preg, the shrink tape, the cured tube and the turned, sanded finished end.<br />
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Here we have the parts in process back on the shelf. Dropouts are ready to bond when the time comes.<br />
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<br />Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-62999077170542346552013-02-17T11:48:00.001-08:002013-02-17T11:49:27.358-08:00Five New FramesAfter a very long wait I finally received my order of tubes and frame components for the latest round of carbon frame building. After these frames are complete I'll have to find a new supplier of construct my own tubing. I don't have enough order volume to qualify for the suppliers new 2013 "builders program".<br />
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Here we start with enough tubes and rear ends to construct 3 road frames and 2 cross frames. I'll be building the three road frames first then getting into the cross frames.</div>
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I've organized the tubes by frame and have them stored on a new purpose built shelf. Over the next few months I'll work my way through them all. I have a few new ideas to try and techniques to perfect. <br />
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Sorry, no build photos yet. I'm still waiting for a missing tube which is unfortunately part of the very first frame. Instead here we have a few CAD images of it instead.<br />
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Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-13336424749277229102012-08-06T13:21:00.000-07:002012-08-24T15:40:46.710-07:00Road Frame 5 Complete...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
...well sort of complete. I had an issue when I bagged and cured the frame a few months ago. The top tube went over temperature in the oven and slightly ovalized. Not a big deal but one of those things that would bug me knowing it was wrong. I decided to use the frame for testing and not bother with the final finishing and an expensive paint job. It's a rattle can finish, good enough to test ride and destructive test later once a replacement has been built.</div>
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It's final weight came to 965g. That's for a 58cm frame with ENVE molded chain stays and individual tubes for seat stays. I moved all the Shimano Di2 components over and rewired for an internal battery. I used the following battery which slipped perfectly inside a Ritchey WCS 27.2 carbon post. <br />
<a href="http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1809">http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1809</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZuYrMgCMMEuR6x-dKiAYiCEnIPO_mZXynnwDFrhni1NUhcWMdR6rQ86_Adq654qQpzTV3T2A2lyIPeTYD2kpHbHOvngBgYuxqyNeRpJ0t-3-MadeRtYw8eE8emDn2KoFfqXhwQ/s1600/Road+5+on+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZuYrMgCMMEuR6x-dKiAYiCEnIPO_mZXynnwDFrhni1NUhcWMdR6rQ86_Adq654qQpzTV3T2A2lyIPeTYD2kpHbHOvngBgYuxqyNeRpJ0t-3-MadeRtYw8eE8emDn2KoFfqXhwQ/s400/Road+5+on+Wall.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Here is the seat cluster with the twin stay tubes and brake bridge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin4GixJ1I0bTeQ61pw3ljBzPe_SiScBRpBRQ8cu-cISWVOemao3JHSYLulbe7i8KXParccF5X-5f9wViklaizhuwAZMx907tpceouvQxaY5F6B6StAovCpqi4ro4H0EzU0BICBeA/s1600/Road+5+Seat+Cluster+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin4GixJ1I0bTeQ61pw3ljBzPe_SiScBRpBRQ8cu-cISWVOemao3JHSYLulbe7i8KXParccF5X-5f9wViklaizhuwAZMx907tpceouvQxaY5F6B6StAovCpqi4ro4H0EzU0BICBeA/s320/Road+5+Seat+Cluster+1.jpg" width="234" /></a></div>
Stay detail.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw4sfMmaAgZgkFnyj8ACfzdLWOcKezBrJIi2bjU0dNZffDZS3fts7lmeyVHHSQ57jybJKA01BdV6w5yM4ULqPYljyR-9IBS5uMmTsT3mO_UXXF7kGSeHXIL6evw1Vv1YkwPfHWig/s1600/Road+5+Seat+Cluster+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw4sfMmaAgZgkFnyj8ACfzdLWOcKezBrJIi2bjU0dNZffDZS3fts7lmeyVHHSQ57jybJKA01BdV6w5yM4ULqPYljyR-9IBS5uMmTsT3mO_UXXF7kGSeHXIL6evw1Vv1YkwPfHWig/s320/Road+5+Seat+Cluster+2.jpg" width="244" /></a></div>
Brake bridge detail.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2KhUo9sPZ8ARIiCaIFDdy1-XeVFD-K-zj96HN4jN9zHHa1y0Z7GUUshS6sz7JadwxJzMm0L8sW0G8rMZ7DvCTK5EJO47GfX8PM0O8lyZkH0YWK09sSGeKr2VdLeFBfU9lRfwFBA/s1600/Brake+Bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2KhUo9sPZ8ARIiCaIFDdy1-XeVFD-K-zj96HN4jN9zHHa1y0Z7GUUshS6sz7JadwxJzMm0L8sW0G8rMZ7DvCTK5EJO47GfX8PM0O8lyZkH0YWK09sSGeKr2VdLeFBfU9lRfwFBA/s320/Brake+Bridge.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I used some woven carbon in the joints. In the right light you can see it clearly through the top layer of uni-directional. Also note the nice clean brake and Di2 wire routing under the top tube.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUCGfdnyaSTSqVPt0JicCwIAOGTb0ZKF0LmceV8y2LqJ8wKziaf_P9Az_3ZMvWEbJ3cmcX731iwz6aQzKBaTFL1RHl26OIMbXeWmHWvZ1x3iZkPSsl7ngCzOIJPf7g20DJdFvTFw/s1600/Road+5+Head+Tube+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUCGfdnyaSTSqVPt0JicCwIAOGTb0ZKF0LmceV8y2LqJ8wKziaf_P9Az_3ZMvWEbJ3cmcX731iwz6aQzKBaTFL1RHl26OIMbXeWmHWvZ1x3iZkPSsl7ngCzOIJPf7g20DJdFvTFw/s320/Road+5+Head+Tube+1.jpg" width="258" /></a></div>
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More to come in the fall...Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-60421833832621305552012-04-21T14:10:00.000-07:002012-04-24T17:28:31.808-07:00New FrameI've started on the next road frame. This one will feature a titanium brake cable guide as well as internal Di2 wiring and battery placement. This will be the first frame featuring thin twin seat stays.<br />
Here is the BB86 tube with generous Di2 wiring passages cut to allow the wiring to be tucked up inside the tubes easily.<br />
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This frame has a large down tube with an OD of 1.74", pretty close to the 44mm ID head tube for InSet headsets.<br />
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The BB joint ready to sand, clean and glue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvxs0IfGQ20aMv316aId0ndP_6tKlbZhsLUXhdnpCx4dRMtpZI0TYqf_zmQcdArkk-TzQFzvk-yQd5YBiBuQgbzyUjOuz-HdYNF4vwcmhp7Xa208ZpCy9Z4McM-i4ec_S8WoTMA/s1600/BB+Joint+Assembled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvxs0IfGQ20aMv316aId0ndP_6tKlbZhsLUXhdnpCx4dRMtpZI0TYqf_zmQcdArkk-TzQFzvk-yQd5YBiBuQgbzyUjOuz-HdYNF4vwcmhp7Xa208ZpCy9Z4McM-i4ec_S8WoTMA/s320/BB+Joint+Assembled.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The twin 0.55 OD seat stays are widely spaced which should make it easier to get the carbon to compact between them under vacuum. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBrHTdwNrBuRM1QzsRiSkiS2jrwwaTCFeotU7uGCxE0kxnTc0LiMRttZjYTw-uTUh5T_2_OQSbUEFipXnDDmXuQr4mkPzIIZ401D0kcysqCd6fuL5Nj4uGckna45yvfoFtoIUjpg/s1600/Twin+Stays+Top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBrHTdwNrBuRM1QzsRiSkiS2jrwwaTCFeotU7uGCxE0kxnTc0LiMRttZjYTw-uTUh5T_2_OQSbUEFipXnDDmXuQr4mkPzIIZ401D0kcysqCd6fuL5Nj4uGckna45yvfoFtoIUjpg/s320/Twin+Stays+Top.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-23398917965815947672012-03-16T17:20:00.001-07:002012-03-20T04:47:00.834-07:00Chuck's Bike AssembledHere is Chuck's new carbon road frame all assembled.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbKLTc7lm3tfEqL7xZXrsVI6onfZHqw6ddLDIqygCwgCv5qktncBjwFCJfQ2RFcSi_aH3aiJghp1hzB2OwRwzXg_Ru8TDXydlzk9pZZnD83mJSnfBbaC4pnMVFZfBG3rBjTQi5gw/s1600/Chuck+Whole+Bike+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbKLTc7lm3tfEqL7xZXrsVI6onfZHqw6ddLDIqygCwgCv5qktncBjwFCJfQ2RFcSi_aH3aiJghp1hzB2OwRwzXg_Ru8TDXydlzk9pZZnD83mJSnfBbaC4pnMVFZfBG3rBjTQi5gw/s320/Chuck+Whole+Bike+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The head tube joints turned out nice and smooth but you can see the uni-directional and faintly the 2X2 twill weave underneath.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdvpzrBxX5HcUAEnMYSzFj-2wBhyphenhyphenVKh8qAUBT9cOVy7P35qP3-J4UnUrU_jmbH7HB5wkCWaUCZXePQiIFxSr1QOIU_fAuHSRztfhg7GFMIrbA4Xl0U4NcdEkkVE3XYpXYub4MeQ/s1600/Head+Tube+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdvpzrBxX5HcUAEnMYSzFj-2wBhyphenhyphenVKh8qAUBT9cOVy7P35qP3-J4UnUrU_jmbH7HB5wkCWaUCZXePQiIFxSr1QOIU_fAuHSRztfhg7GFMIrbA4Xl0U4NcdEkkVE3XYpXYub4MeQ/s320/Head+Tube+1.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br />
The anodized Crumpton dropouts are small and light but also thick and rigid where needed on the hanger.<br />
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The BB joint...also very nice looking!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6bEdhR0pqS2ztF28d0RuRVUvDAcPQefvDH3tAmxwrw7bhAv-v9rOEa9Cu2BxqVLGASQgl0v_TKR0ybf9iHc7fN0jRPQa6qBbIqT7-Q4TKxAwN_xBvRaWW3__EMxiu7JNNIJvHA/s1600/BB+Joint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6bEdhR0pqS2ztF28d0RuRVUvDAcPQefvDH3tAmxwrw7bhAv-v9rOEa9Cu2BxqVLGASQgl0v_TKR0ybf9iHc7fN0jRPQa6qBbIqT7-Q4TKxAwN_xBvRaWW3__EMxiu7JNNIJvHA/s320/BB+Joint.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br />
Finally the seat tube cluster with the exit for the rear brake cable. I'm happy with the way that has worked out.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEt2PmeRQitw_BUm7XZFsPZbtyz64_XV-HJAbYdMO5JuTR3sCJ1fPUAvbV8aSHW2nRg_Qpra8amJuGC5aGguaJHvqQk_6Ovq0v3rrYexoufWAdPB-COWOmTo0UzCaUIsmEdTzmKg/s1600/Finished+Seat+Cluster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEt2PmeRQitw_BUm7XZFsPZbtyz64_XV-HJAbYdMO5JuTR3sCJ1fPUAvbV8aSHW2nRg_Qpra8amJuGC5aGguaJHvqQk_6Ovq0v3rrYexoufWAdPB-COWOmTo0UzCaUIsmEdTzmKg/s320/Finished+Seat+Cluster.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Yes, that's a nice arch on the cable...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNbd-EmxokfXQjtiuok3vkemZwL0C2YAyCOkdHDSb5iBeExTziaa3oMZw0IcPICfE-xS_SwJziQ9eJTjpkrc-LhJEV7UbBWpzCRU033MtmNOUlrWMr31Dtp4jm9A9tDpdIcN3m8Q/s1600/Cable+Arch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNbd-EmxokfXQjtiuok3vkemZwL0C2YAyCOkdHDSb5iBeExTziaa3oMZw0IcPICfE-xS_SwJziQ9eJTjpkrc-LhJEV7UbBWpzCRU033MtmNOUlrWMr31Dtp4jm9A9tDpdIcN3m8Q/s320/Cable+Arch.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Up next, I start on another carbon road frame with twin seat stay tubes and internal Di2 battery and cabling.Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-45202457763967515092012-03-09T17:52:00.002-08:002012-03-09T17:54:50.460-08:00Chuck's Frame FinishedI picked Chuck's frame up from Stefan who did an awesome job with the matte clear over gloss clear theme. I'll show a few teaser shots now and the rest once the bike is built up. Here is the underside of the top tube showing the entrance to the titanium brake cable guide tube.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhSQHOQWaqglCN4Otq4vA72a453S5TIJw_HB7mXNRzcKDkDn2esGFdUTicYQe7Lf36v5iDN6Tol6sWRHVa-t6y05P2VbRJA9EiXIcF93J1jfC2_Oi8bDI8eMWeYDhcmFfMAWTLg/s1600/Under+Top+Tube.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhSQHOQWaqglCN4Otq4vA72a453S5TIJw_HB7mXNRzcKDkDn2esGFdUTicYQe7Lf36v5iDN6Tol6sWRHVa-t6y05P2VbRJA9EiXIcF93J1jfC2_Oi8bDI8eMWeYDhcmFfMAWTLg/s320/Under+Top+Tube.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The matte over gloss clear looks really good with the logos. Subtle unless you look closely.<br />
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The surface is smooth and consistent but you can see the pattern of the carbon layers through the paint at the joints.<br />
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The underside of the BB with cable guide tube.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9j_bOmwUiEMISzp1_qv8ng0KTUU2mUalguEnmqdjRLQvVTNVAXjUs5BVXDdXdz5qAB-u2e0EBJGRqMfEFH9d6I7DukDjYfX8wq2Nq-ETkld2Ne8NIpM5JG60sg2BkA1_WvrXujA/s1600/Under+BB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9j_bOmwUiEMISzp1_qv8ng0KTUU2mUalguEnmqdjRLQvVTNVAXjUs5BVXDdXdz5qAB-u2e0EBJGRqMfEFH9d6I7DukDjYfX8wq2Nq-ETkld2Ne8NIpM5JG60sg2BkA1_WvrXujA/s320/Under+BB.jpg" width="245" /></a></div><br />
Finally the shot Neil has been waiting for...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzV-HKATwGPR378j0agd7ec1ppzsm7hZ_IQJ0QZPzHt3UuHQWsfkLYahlGXwU-1BF1jFAckFGZzKkhr7r2SCPUKq_lOUDPWg8Il3QkiO7UtyVuq8pYrVsfkpT01FBM2td5fJ41fg/s1600/Finished+BB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzV-HKATwGPR378j0agd7ec1ppzsm7hZ_IQJ0QZPzHt3UuHQWsfkLYahlGXwU-1BF1jFAckFGZzKkhr7r2SCPUKq_lOUDPWg8Il3QkiO7UtyVuq8pYrVsfkpT01FBM2td5fJ41fg/s320/Finished+BB.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhSQHOQWaqglCN4Otq4vA72a453S5TIJw_HB7mXNRzcKDkDn2esGFdUTicYQe7Lf36v5iDN6Tol6sWRHVa-t6y05P2VbRJA9EiXIcF93J1jfC2_Oi8bDI8eMWeYDhcmFfMAWTLg/s1600/Under+Top+Tube.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>More to come in the next few days...and the paint weighs 28g for those who obsess over such things. Total frame weight 1033g.Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26817114.post-59137630242688604572012-02-28T17:53:00.001-08:002012-02-28T17:55:34.532-08:00Final Details Before PaintI spent some time tonight and wrapped up all the last little details before the frame is sent for clear coat etc.<br />
The first thing I did was drill and slot the back of the seat tube. The slot may be a little short but it clamps well. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTtV3xAqequnOqG-jnHmOUGr5TEVhaJdRLnlUaGBcFOlQPJSA6-f-D8jaiNZO7h8nhX4VmWFP5JZEqiGzovklhfQgVe3MQq1dEqgmzMiGHqbmEDXqFmu3qqMrcZH4BFaO6mmcaeQ/s1600/Slotting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTtV3xAqequnOqG-jnHmOUGr5TEVhaJdRLnlUaGBcFOlQPJSA6-f-D8jaiNZO7h8nhX4VmWFP5JZEqiGzovklhfQgVe3MQq1dEqgmzMiGHqbmEDXqFmu3qqMrcZH4BFaO6mmcaeQ/s320/Slotting.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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I then drilled holes for the down tube cable stops followed by bonding with DP 420 and two rivets each.<br />
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Finally I carefully drilled a hole right through the frame behind the BB to guide the front derailleur cable and seal the frame. Next time I'll get some titanium tubing to avoid possible corrosion issues. I'll trim the tube flush once the glue sets. <br />
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A final light sanding all over with 600grit, a cleaning with alcohol and it's ready for the painters.Glen Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01919507781264963135noreply@blogger.com1